Quebec City in the Winter Time!
When you really love a place you try to go back as often as you can. In the summer of 2019, we made our first trip to Quebec and fell in love quickly with the city's charm. We were overwhelmed by the kindness of the people, the classic European feel of the city, and the history that waited for us around every turn. If you haven't had a chance to visit there yet, and I hope you have, but are still looking for a European vacation you can take, I would suggest that you don't even have to leave the continent to feel like you've wandered back in time three hundred years. While our entire trip to Canada was exciting, Quebec reigned supreme for us. Rarely have we done this before, but on the train ride from Quebec to Montreal this past summer we decided we would come back for the winter. We wanted to see if we would feel the same sense of wonder as we wandered through the streets during a Canadian winter. After all of the fun we had on our winter visit to Vienna, Austria, this seemed like the perfect way to start 2020 off with some excitement.
Getting to Quebec is the hardest part about the whole experience, and it's really not that hard of a challenge. There's an airport there that has direct flights, but they are generally on smaller planes, and most of the flights connect through places like Montreal or New York. Like we did in the summer, we flew directly to Montreal. We could have waited a couple of hours for our connection to Quebec, but we decided to take the train again for several reasons. First, there is a train station at the Montreal (YUL) airport, or at least there is a shuttle that takes you to the Dorval train station five minutes away, which makes riding the train much easier. Second, if we had chosen to wait for a connecting flight we would have had to Uber into town from the airport, which is about a 30 minute ride from the heart of Old Quebec. Third, and this is the most important one, we love taking the train. The VIA Rail train system is wonderful. Why not travel by train? Our train departed before any of our connecting flights would have departed, we had free WiFi and dinner on the train, and we could get up and walk around as needed. Sure, the plane would have been faster, but after you factor in the wait for a connection, getting your bags, and taking a taxi into town, the time difference is negligible. The best part is the train to Quebec arrives at the Gare du Palais train station, which sits at the edge of the old town.
In the days leading up to our trip we kept seeing that the weather may be bad, or at least bad for two Atlantans. We packed accordingly, and I'm glad we did. My nature as a packer is to be a minimalist. We like to stay in Airbnb's with washers and dryers so that I only have to bring a couple of changes of clothes. As we learned from our Austria trip, where my bag arrived two days after our flight did, it's better in extreme conditions to always err on the side of caution. When we arrived in Quebec we were greeted with what was probably a normal snow storm for them, but seemed like a blizzard from hell to us. It snowed more than six inches that first night, and made the city a snowy wonderland, but also made getting around somewhat difficult. Tip number one is to make sure you bring shoes with some grip like hiking shoes. We thankfully did, and were able to walk fine, but some of the other tourists we saw were sliding up and down the hills for lack of traction. This time we stayed on the hip Rue Saint-Joseph. Lined for several blocks with restaurants, shops, bars, nightclubs, and even a Scientology center for those of you looking to make an extraterrestrial connection, it was the perfect place for us to stay. One of the treats of visiting Canada is the classic dish poutine. What's not to love about potatoes, cheese, gravy, and any number of delicious toppings? When we arrived we found that we may not even have to leave the apartment to enjoy a meal as we were directly across the street from a place called Poutineville, and it was wonderful. Right down the block was an equally delicious meal from another classic Canadian dish, smoked meat, at Phil Smoked Meat. The next day we wandered out into the 20 degree weather and made our way to the old town to see if other tourists were out in the freezing cold like us, and the answer is yes, and plenty of them.
While we couldn't help but pass some of the same places we had visited in the summer, we wanted to see all new places this trip. We had breakfast at the famous Chateau Fronternac, an iconic castle-like hotel hovering above the city on a cliff over the St. Lawrence River. The site was once home to the governors of Quebec, but in the 1890's the old mansion was destroyed and a hotel that embodies the grandeur of the Gilded Age was built. While you're there, spend some time in the hotel. There are shops inside that offer the usual tourist wears, but also some wonderful shops selling high-end crafts. They also have a wonderful museum on the ground floor outlining the history of Quebec, and the role of that location in the history of the city. It's completely free, and you have the option at the end of dining in the hotel restaurant or visiting a Starbucks for a coffee if you want. Just a tip, make a reservation if you are visiting the hotel breakfast buffet. It's open to the public, but the wait can be very long if you don't have a reservation. From there we headed down hill, very slowly, to the delightful Petit Champlain neighborhood. This is the iconic image of Quebec. Several blocks of small artist shops, bakeries, coffee shops, and almost every other luxury you could be looking for. Wandering up and down the street in the snow, it was what you imagine in a winter wonderland. There was even a lady at the end of the street taking maple syrup, rolling it in snow, and selling them as cheap treats while you explored. If you're visiting Quebec, don't rush through this neighborhood. Come back to it over several days. There are side streets and alleys that have small restaurants and shops, and everyone one of them is worth taking time to visit.
If the snow gets to be too much for you, wander down near the water and visit the Musée de la Civilisation. If you're a member of a museum in your hometown, check to see if you get reciprocal admission. With our membership at the Atlanta History Center, we were able to get into this museum completely free of charge. Inside you'll find a fascinating history of the Quebec region, with artifacts dating back to the earliest settlers in the 17th Century. In this exhibit I learned about a unique moment in Canadian history I had never heard of called the October Crisis. In October, 1970, a radical left-wing independence group known as the Front de Libération du Québec kidnapped two elected officials, and killed one of them, in a bid to get the Canadian government to grant Quebec independence. Obviously that did not occur, but the events that led up to these kidnappings sounds like something out of the Irish Republican Army, not the level headed Canadians to our north. Another exhibit was on the evolution of animals, and had fossils from animals from throughout the world. They also had copies of field notes taken by Charles Darwin and other 19th Century scientists to record the evolution of animals. Some of the unique items were the largest pair of water buffalo horns ever recorded, a skeleton of a dodo bird, and a signed ostrich egg that once belonged to Lawrence of Arabia. There were several other exhibits, including the history of the internet and the history of snakes. There were also exhibits in the museum on the native, First Nations, people of the region. All of these make for a wonderful way to spend a day, especially when it's snowing and 25 degrees outside. And don't worry, all of the exhibits were in both French and English, so everyone can have a good time there.
Our last experience is one that's difficult to replicate, unless you decide to visit over the New Year's holiday. On New Year's Eve we headed up to the parliament building, sitting grandly on another of what seems like the countless peaks around the Old Quebec, and rang in the New Year with tens of thousands of locals out celebrating and drinking to stay warm. There were two stages set up on the Grande Allée, the main street of the city outside the old city walls. On one side of the parliament building was a giant park where thousands were celebrating with the techno music of the ironically named DJ Sleepy Tom, who was trying to keep people up until midnight. There was also a park set up for sledding, a Ferris wheel, and dozens of food and beer stands. Walking down the Grande Allée, there were countless bars and restaurants hosting their own parties. It was a very Mardi Gras type party, just with no beads, and much much more clothing. Heading back to the other side of the parliament, we found the rock music stage. This stage was manned by an eclectic group of musicians and dancers, some of whom I know doubled as street performers during the day because I had seen the lead singer perform outside of the Fronternac before. The show was like nothing I've ever seen. There were folk dancers doing choreographed clogging routines behind a rock band singing Journey and AC/DC covers. Half of the time the songs were in French, but then in mid-set the band would switch and sing them in English. At one point (forgive me for the picture being so poor, I had to react quickly when I took it) the lead singer decided he would perform the theme song to Top Gun shirtless in the driving snow. Not only did he decide to do this, he mounted his guitar on a jack that lifted him in the air like Elmer Fudd in the Barber of Seville. So now a shirtless French-Canadian guy is playing the theme song to an 80's movie in the snow on New Year's Eve. That's not unique enough for you? He then decides to do a hand stand while playing the guitar, and was able to play the song well upside down. After all of this the countdown started. We were backed up to a railing right in front of the parliament building, only to realize why this area was so lightly populated. As the countdown hit zero, a torrent of fireworks erupted fifteen feet behind us. It was overwhelming and exhilarating to be that close to such a show. We were actually looking directly up at the fireworks exploding overhead. Like a fog on a Scottish moor, the smoke from the fireworks was thick and made leaving quite the adventure.
While this may be the last time we visit Quebec for a few years, it has quickly become one of our favorite places to visit worldwide. I would really like to encourage anyone who has never visited to plan a trip there soon. Not only is it full of wonderful people, amazing history, and delicious food, but even if you visit in the winter they're able, like a good Canadian city should, to keep the streets clear and the fun rolling. For those of you who are nervous about flying, and want to visit Europe, this is as close to a European vacation as you can ever get in North America, and is just as captivating as any of the cities we've been to on our trips. Please feel free to let us know if you have any questions.
Getting to Quebec is the hardest part about the whole experience, and it's really not that hard of a challenge. There's an airport there that has direct flights, but they are generally on smaller planes, and most of the flights connect through places like Montreal or New York. Like we did in the summer, we flew directly to Montreal. We could have waited a couple of hours for our connection to Quebec, but we decided to take the train again for several reasons. First, there is a train station at the Montreal (YUL) airport, or at least there is a shuttle that takes you to the Dorval train station five minutes away, which makes riding the train much easier. Second, if we had chosen to wait for a connecting flight we would have had to Uber into town from the airport, which is about a 30 minute ride from the heart of Old Quebec. Third, and this is the most important one, we love taking the train. The VIA Rail train system is wonderful. Why not travel by train? Our train departed before any of our connecting flights would have departed, we had free WiFi and dinner on the train, and we could get up and walk around as needed. Sure, the plane would have been faster, but after you factor in the wait for a connection, getting your bags, and taking a taxi into town, the time difference is negligible. The best part is the train to Quebec arrives at the Gare du Palais train station, which sits at the edge of the old town.
In the days leading up to our trip we kept seeing that the weather may be bad, or at least bad for two Atlantans. We packed accordingly, and I'm glad we did. My nature as a packer is to be a minimalist. We like to stay in Airbnb's with washers and dryers so that I only have to bring a couple of changes of clothes. As we learned from our Austria trip, where my bag arrived two days after our flight did, it's better in extreme conditions to always err on the side of caution. When we arrived in Quebec we were greeted with what was probably a normal snow storm for them, but seemed like a blizzard from hell to us. It snowed more than six inches that first night, and made the city a snowy wonderland, but also made getting around somewhat difficult. Tip number one is to make sure you bring shoes with some grip like hiking shoes. We thankfully did, and were able to walk fine, but some of the other tourists we saw were sliding up and down the hills for lack of traction. This time we stayed on the hip Rue Saint-Joseph. Lined for several blocks with restaurants, shops, bars, nightclubs, and even a Scientology center for those of you looking to make an extraterrestrial connection, it was the perfect place for us to stay. One of the treats of visiting Canada is the classic dish poutine. What's not to love about potatoes, cheese, gravy, and any number of delicious toppings? When we arrived we found that we may not even have to leave the apartment to enjoy a meal as we were directly across the street from a place called Poutineville, and it was wonderful. Right down the block was an equally delicious meal from another classic Canadian dish, smoked meat, at Phil Smoked Meat. The next day we wandered out into the 20 degree weather and made our way to the old town to see if other tourists were out in the freezing cold like us, and the answer is yes, and plenty of them.
While we couldn't help but pass some of the same places we had visited in the summer, we wanted to see all new places this trip. We had breakfast at the famous Chateau Fronternac, an iconic castle-like hotel hovering above the city on a cliff over the St. Lawrence River. The site was once home to the governors of Quebec, but in the 1890's the old mansion was destroyed and a hotel that embodies the grandeur of the Gilded Age was built. While you're there, spend some time in the hotel. There are shops inside that offer the usual tourist wears, but also some wonderful shops selling high-end crafts. They also have a wonderful museum on the ground floor outlining the history of Quebec, and the role of that location in the history of the city. It's completely free, and you have the option at the end of dining in the hotel restaurant or visiting a Starbucks for a coffee if you want. Just a tip, make a reservation if you are visiting the hotel breakfast buffet. It's open to the public, but the wait can be very long if you don't have a reservation. From there we headed down hill, very slowly, to the delightful Petit Champlain neighborhood. This is the iconic image of Quebec. Several blocks of small artist shops, bakeries, coffee shops, and almost every other luxury you could be looking for. Wandering up and down the street in the snow, it was what you imagine in a winter wonderland. There was even a lady at the end of the street taking maple syrup, rolling it in snow, and selling them as cheap treats while you explored. If you're visiting Quebec, don't rush through this neighborhood. Come back to it over several days. There are side streets and alleys that have small restaurants and shops, and everyone one of them is worth taking time to visit.
If the snow gets to be too much for you, wander down near the water and visit the Musée de la Civilisation. If you're a member of a museum in your hometown, check to see if you get reciprocal admission. With our membership at the Atlanta History Center, we were able to get into this museum completely free of charge. Inside you'll find a fascinating history of the Quebec region, with artifacts dating back to the earliest settlers in the 17th Century. In this exhibit I learned about a unique moment in Canadian history I had never heard of called the October Crisis. In October, 1970, a radical left-wing independence group known as the Front de Libération du Québec kidnapped two elected officials, and killed one of them, in a bid to get the Canadian government to grant Quebec independence. Obviously that did not occur, but the events that led up to these kidnappings sounds like something out of the Irish Republican Army, not the level headed Canadians to our north. Another exhibit was on the evolution of animals, and had fossils from animals from throughout the world. They also had copies of field notes taken by Charles Darwin and other 19th Century scientists to record the evolution of animals. Some of the unique items were the largest pair of water buffalo horns ever recorded, a skeleton of a dodo bird, and a signed ostrich egg that once belonged to Lawrence of Arabia. There were several other exhibits, including the history of the internet and the history of snakes. There were also exhibits in the museum on the native, First Nations, people of the region. All of these make for a wonderful way to spend a day, especially when it's snowing and 25 degrees outside. And don't worry, all of the exhibits were in both French and English, so everyone can have a good time there.
Our last experience is one that's difficult to replicate, unless you decide to visit over the New Year's holiday. On New Year's Eve we headed up to the parliament building, sitting grandly on another of what seems like the countless peaks around the Old Quebec, and rang in the New Year with tens of thousands of locals out celebrating and drinking to stay warm. There were two stages set up on the Grande Allée, the main street of the city outside the old city walls. On one side of the parliament building was a giant park where thousands were celebrating with the techno music of the ironically named DJ Sleepy Tom, who was trying to keep people up until midnight. There was also a park set up for sledding, a Ferris wheel, and dozens of food and beer stands. Walking down the Grande Allée, there were countless bars and restaurants hosting their own parties. It was a very Mardi Gras type party, just with no beads, and much much more clothing. Heading back to the other side of the parliament, we found the rock music stage. This stage was manned by an eclectic group of musicians and dancers, some of whom I know doubled as street performers during the day because I had seen the lead singer perform outside of the Fronternac before. The show was like nothing I've ever seen. There were folk dancers doing choreographed clogging routines behind a rock band singing Journey and AC/DC covers. Half of the time the songs were in French, but then in mid-set the band would switch and sing them in English. At one point (forgive me for the picture being so poor, I had to react quickly when I took it) the lead singer decided he would perform the theme song to Top Gun shirtless in the driving snow. Not only did he decide to do this, he mounted his guitar on a jack that lifted him in the air like Elmer Fudd in the Barber of Seville. So now a shirtless French-Canadian guy is playing the theme song to an 80's movie in the snow on New Year's Eve. That's not unique enough for you? He then decides to do a hand stand while playing the guitar, and was able to play the song well upside down. After all of this the countdown started. We were backed up to a railing right in front of the parliament building, only to realize why this area was so lightly populated. As the countdown hit zero, a torrent of fireworks erupted fifteen feet behind us. It was overwhelming and exhilarating to be that close to such a show. We were actually looking directly up at the fireworks exploding overhead. Like a fog on a Scottish moor, the smoke from the fireworks was thick and made leaving quite the adventure.
While this may be the last time we visit Quebec for a few years, it has quickly become one of our favorite places to visit worldwide. I would really like to encourage anyone who has never visited to plan a trip there soon. Not only is it full of wonderful people, amazing history, and delicious food, but even if you visit in the winter they're able, like a good Canadian city should, to keep the streets clear and the fun rolling. For those of you who are nervous about flying, and want to visit Europe, this is as close to a European vacation as you can ever get in North America, and is just as captivating as any of the cities we've been to on our trips. Please feel free to let us know if you have any questions.
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