Lisbon - A City of Hills, Nice People, Some More Hills, Amazing History, and Even More Hills (Part II)

When traveling you always have to expect the unexpected.  Lisbon was another lesson in being flexible when things don't go as planned.  When we woke up this morning we planned on taking a day trip out to Sintra.  When we arrived at the train station we noticed the next train wasn't coming for another two and a half hours.  It was only after standing around for half an hour that we were informed there would be no train because the rail workers of Portugal had decided to go on strike until 11:40am that day.  Why 11:40am?  Well if I have to tell you then you don't understand their struggle.  Oh wait, that was just some arbitrary time?  Never mind then.  We were forced to make a immediate game change, and come up with a day on the fly.  It's amazing what you can come up with when you have to act quickly.

For our impromptu day of sightseeing in Lisbon we decided to pick up where we left off yesterday.  Traveling to the Restauradores train station we set off on a hike through the Figueira neighborhood of Lisbon.  Our first stop was the Largo de Sao Domingos, one of the many squares that dominate the city.  Built in the 16th Century, the Cathedral de Sao Domingos is a testament to the survival instincts of the people of Lisbon.  As you walk into the cathedral you will notice the state of destruction much of the cathedral remains in.  Operating in this state for more than two and a half centuries, it was left this way to demonstrate how far these people have come.  Walls that were almost completely destroyed during the massive 1755 earthquake that destroyed most of Lisbon are without much decoration, and still look precarious to this day.  Outside of the cathedral is a monument to the Jewish massacre of 1496 where thousands of Jews were murdered in reaction to a panic that erupted from a drought.  From there walk down hill towards the Praca de Figueira (Fig Tree Square).  From the square you can look up and see Castelo de Sao Jorge looming over the city, and then walk towards the Church of St. Nicola.  Most European churches face the street so everyone attending can view the glory of God as they walk into the church, but many churches in Lisbon are built longways down the street to give more room for the builders to display the iconic tiles that are so well-known in Lisbon architecture.

After leaving the church, make your way towards Castelo de Sao Jorge.  To get there take the free elevators that will help you get about 80% of the way to the top.  The elevators are very well hidden, but you can find them on several maps online.  There are steps you can take if somehow you aren't walked out, but the elevators are free.  When you get to the top of the hill you will have to buy a ticket to tour the castle.  The ticket prices are €8.50 per person, and your Lisbon Pass does not cover entrance.  Once inside you will see why rulers of Lisbon and Portugal have called this home for thousands of years.  Originally settled centuries before the time of Jesus Christ, the castle you see today was largely built more than a thousand years ago by the Moors who ruled Portugal until the 12th Century.  The castle provides some of the most impressive views of any city in the world.  From one location you can see the ocean to your left, scan across the old city, and finish looking at the modern buildings of 21st Century Lisbon.  Walk throughout castle and examine the high walls that are open for exploring,  The citadels of the walls allow you to imagine what soldiers must have seen seven hundred years ago.  Much of the castle, like much of the city, was destroyed with the 1755 earthquake, and was abandoned after that.  Strolling throughout the remnants are peacocks that seemed intent on impressing every lady in the crowd.  There is a museum on site that includes pottery, coins, and tools that are more than two thousand years old.  After leaving the museum take the high wall and march over to the archeological site where you can see the remains of ancient Roman ruins, Moorish homes, and Portuguese soldiers all built on top of each other.

Another wonderful site literally outside of our apartment door, I mean literally, our apartment is on the other side of the street, is the National Pantheon of Portugal.  A majestic building sitting on top of the highest hill in the Alfama neighborhood, the Pantheon was originally conceived as another massive cathedral for the people of Lisbon in the 16th Century.  Wars, lack of money, the 1755 earthquake, etc, all led to the Pantheon never being completed.  It sat unused until the 19th Century when the government began using it as barracks for the military.  It even served as a shoe factory after the barracks shut down.  It wasn't until 1960 that the government of Portugal decided to finish this amazing structure.  Inside are buried some of the leading figures of the 19th and 20th Centuries in the country.  Buried inside are four former presidents, some of the greatest artists of their time, and even the most famous soccer player in Portugeuse history, who is ironically not from Portugal.  When you walk inside you will be in awe of the size and beauty of the building.  The roof is more than six stories high, and the dome on top is impressive.  The stone tombs and arches remind you of Les Invelides in Paris.  Walk upstairs and wander out on the rooftop terrace that gives you a sky high view of the city.  You can see from the Tages River to the edge of the city, and even the cruise ships sailing into port for day visitors.

There are many more wonderful things you can do.  If it is Tuesday or Saturday, you can wander out of the Pantheon and take in the famed "Thieves Market" that's a tradition in the city.  Locals will set up this flea market right in the streets of Lisbon, selling everything including jewelry, pottery, clothing, puppies (we literally saw a guy with a box full of puppies), and just about anything else you can imagine or don't want too.  One old man sat there and read his newspaper while surrounded by hundreds of VHS porn tapes he had for sale.  When everyone goes looking for that great gift to bring home from their European trip, doesn't everyone think about 30 year old porn?  Well that guy has you covered.  Another day down, and another day of unbelievably nice people, a lot of hills, some rain, and a good time made up on the fly.  Just in case you were wondering, does Brandon fit better in Portugal than other European countries, well here is your answer.

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